Saturday, 16 November 2013

ITALY 11th November - the leaning tower of tourists and Florence




So today we left the glittering palace and headed to Pisa. I was a little bit apprehensive this morning as had had a bad night stomach wise and the worst thing is thinking stomach ache long bus ride if you get my drift.... So packed some dry bread rolls and headed off.

We drove for about 4 hrs, stopping at another service station for the loos. It would be a interesting experiment to add the number of hrs ( not minutes ) I have spent standing in line for the toilet on this trip lol. I have started stockpiling food....I know I know I said I wouldn't but when I have found something dairy free I have tended to go for it...I will do a cull before leaving Italy.

We arrived at Pisa and were given a stern talking to about how we had become a little lax in looking after our belongings and that sift hands were everywhere!!! Also Latizia told us about the people trying to sell to us and we must not encourage them. Ok .... Adjust paranoid tourist level to high again. We boarded a shuttle that looked like a Disney ride to the tower. 

It was great being there and seeing the leaning tower of Pisa, but in all honesty once you kind of saw it I kind of felt ok let's move on. We did have some fun trying to do those stupid tourist shots of holding up the tower....I was beginning to think that the whole reason they haven't fixed the tower was a conspiracy to make tourists look like complete tools while taking aforementioned photos. Anywho, we saw we photographed we avoided other people's photographs and moved on.


Drove onto Florence. I'm not sure if its the bus's hummmmm, the constant information, the need to escape from loud americans or I'm just getting really tired, but even time the bus turned on I'm tending to fall asleep. When I woke up we were in Florence in our hotel with no less than 8 other groups staying there. Got our rooms - singles allocated rooms first yay bonus for going alone. Room was nice more modern hotel. I pottered around got ready then almost ran late to get ready for our traditional Florence dinner experience.

We drive out of Florence a bit and ended up at what was once a farm. Very gregarious head cook... Or so we thought. They started us off with some blue champagney thing. Was lovely. Then were ushered into a room. The four Aussies sat together, Gail had opted not to come. They had the most amazing selection of antipasto I'd seen all trip and I could eat most of it!!! the traditional food in Florence is a little simpler than the other food we have eaten, simple fresh flavours, beans, simple meat dishes not doused in sauce. The  blue drink, strawberry wine, chianti and white continued to flow throughout the evening. That coupled with an older Italian gentleman serenading us and trying to get us to dance, kissing us made for a fun night. I have to say that he older Italian man was quite persistent especially at coming to kiss our hands/ rings. Thankfully Georgia was a better sport than me and got up to dance with our Italian stud, as well as one or two of the older gentlemen in the group. I was worried we may have to resuscitate some of them afterwards lol. We ordered more smurf wine and Georgia managed to ingeniously smuggle some onto the bus. Just before we left we at the encouragement of our waitress were going to go kiss the chef. We were thinking it was going to b the huggable guy who introduced the restaurant to us.... Hmmm not so much. Suffice it to say we were a but surprised when we walked into the kitchen to find a female chef, no big moustache man anywhere to b seen.....ah ok. FYI - I did not have my first lesbian experience and we waved and went on our merry way lol lol.

Returned to the hotel ad had a night cap ... Quite getting used to espresso , decaf at this hour of the night with a dash of Kaluah noice!!! Maybe I'm becoming Italian after all. 

ITALY 14th and 15th November - no more group, back on my own, recharge for next country



Woke up early enough to say good bye to Georgia, Kerri and Gail.

After wobbly night the night before I think I was at peace with people/ new friends leaving once again. I know it sounds dramatic but it really is a cycle I have noticed. A process Im becoming more at easy with...but still it's a weird feeling to be part of a group, have people around you to then have no one again. That said they practically had to kick me off the bus lol

Finished breakfast with a few couples. All Australians ! I think because of the long distance to Italy many Australian extended their trips if they could. We chatted and one couple Kate and Mark arranged for us to meet at the Trevi fountain for dinner.

Slept a bit more in my giant emperor sized bed ( bigger than a king lol could touch the sides when lying across it ),  packed and got a cab to my new hotel.

New hotel (hotel tritone) very nice quite modern great location, smallest bed ( from one bed extreme to the other lol). Checked in and then had to test out said bed and had a snooze. Really felt the need to catch up on some sleep and recharge before Turkey.

Made my way to the the Trevi fountain, seriously it was close just around the corner. Was very early, yes you heard right, which left me wandering around the shops...bad idea...but found a cute skirt on sale. I met Kate and Mark and we went for a stroll and picked up dinner. We chatted easily, the red wine brand Vinno Rosso de la Casa = house wine lol went  down very easily as I shared Mark and Kate's last Italian meal. It is funny how travelling puts you in a different state of mind. Sitting with relative strangers but chatting, relating easily. It's so nice to experience these situations. At home I find I seek these human interactions and love finding out, talking to different new people. Travelling makes it easy to fulfil this. Anyway back to food lol....we went to a famous gelato house where I found dairy free chocolate and raspberry a d slowly lapsed into a diabetic coma. That may explain why after saying good bye ( very last people I know in Italy :-) I managed to get myself slightly lost. Der!!!!!! Got hm, eventually after consulting the map and with limited stress, the streets were still loaded with people. 

Home, Facebook sleep 

The 15 th November was another day that never quite happened, Like at the end of my Croatia tour. Really took it easy, tried to catch up on emails, blog which is hideously behind, slept organised. I  think I really got my money's worth of my hotel room today. 

I keep trying to justify my day as to be honest it does make me feel guilty to not be making the most of Rome, that said I need to recharge for turkey otherwise I won't make the most of it.  Also it's a good opportunity to save money not going out as left to my own devices e shops tend to call lol

FYI at this stage I can almost recall CNN reports word for word as it is on repeat and the only English speaking channel...I think I might start developing an American accent! Oh no!!!

Must try and repack and rearrange luggage to make it lighter...any ideas???

ITALY 12th November - the walking zombie tour shopping CPR.




So woke up tired, so tired forgoing breakfast was a good idea...until I heard reports of  'stace you must have loved seeing soy milk at breakfast ' grrrrr first time and I missed it....oh well build a bridge.


Clambered on the bus and went to see a museum with the real Michel Angelo's David. there were all sorts of his sculptures completed and in the incomplete stage. It was amazing to see how be created his master pieces. He was the only artists to sculpt from marble without using a model. The incomplete pieces revealed themselves slowly from the marble. It has been said that he would choose particular pieces of marble that had the form / lines / structure of the form he wanted to create. He sculptures up until 8 days before his death well into his 80s. He only once broke a price off a female form he created and went to destroy the entire piece...perfectionist much? But seriously he was a creative genius. The amount if talent, creativity, free and critical thinking and imagination that was born in this country around this time is astounding. Granted when you go to a country they 'sell' their famous people but you really can't go past Michael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticini, even the scientist Voltaire was born in Lake Como- he invented the battery. Don't get me wrong I'm not whiz at general knowledge but I taught it to kids for 4 years when studying electricity. All of the history is rubbing off on me and I'm even considering reading up a bit more, as at this stage when they say 'its obvious the difference between Gothic style, renaissance and other ( I'm not even sure I'm getting the terms right here) I'm standing their nodding with absolutely no idea ! Lol 

So we walked around being amazed. You could get quite close and see amazing details of the muscle tone and veins on David's hands and other bits ..... Well it's right there you can't help but look. Unfortunately the sate in which I woke up... Being bone tired was just getting worse and I literally almost fell asleep standing up :(

We then moved on and started a walking tour around the centre of Florence. It was beautiful. Amazingly decorated cathedral and doors that were engraved and contained little sculptures. One disadvantage of going on all of these tours and essentially being fed the main highlights without having to do much research, is that when it comes to writing down and recording what actually I saw I'm can't recall names let alone spelling. Maybe someone will look at my photos and tell me lol

After the tour we were led back to Latizia who shepherded us through a gold / jewellery store and leather department store where you can't but feel you are being a bit manipulated and wonder how much of a kickback the tour company gets. It's unavoidable and I guess has only happened on a handful of occasions so it is bearable ....just

Gail and I then had a much needed coffee and Panadol to stave off an oncoming sleep deprived headache and started shopping. Voila!!! Headache gone and shopping adrenaline kicked in. I'm proud to say that I didn't impulse buy and did some research and went into many a store. A bought my first black leather jacket!!! Woo hoo. It's hard to choose, found a beautiful soft lamb leather jacket but even splitting it around cash and various credit cards it was out of reach. Others were cheaper but not so well fitting until I decided upon a classic shape and style that suits me. Nothing too outrageous but that's for my next trip to Italy lol.

After the shopping frenzy I had planned to meet up with an old friend Devorah who lived in Florenece with her daughter and husband. We had messages back and forth for a couple of weeks and with our busy schedule and baby timetable it was hard to arrange but we were adamant that we would make it happen. I left the tour group and had detailed directions from Devorah. Simple enough but I'm always amazed when I can actually follow instructions given. On the way to meet Devorah and Miriam, Devorah had pointed out this amazing jewellery shop. These rings were works of art - seriously not a good place who has a self confessed 'problem' with buying jewellery. Just as well the rings I liked ranged from €4000-€8000.... Slightly outside of my price range lol have a look www.alessandrodari.com.  It was soooooo nice to actually see Devorah and Miriam on the street. We gave each other a giant hug. I haven't seen her in over five years at least but that didn't matter at all. We chatted, jabbered, spoke and swapped stories and gossip for ages, under the gaze of a not so friendly waiter but I didn't care. It was so cool hearing about life in Italy from her perspective, hearing her speak in Italian like a pro. We walked down to her husbands studio where he and some other restorers worked, some who worked with frescos, glass, paintings and sculptures . It was seriously amazing to see the artefacts just sitting there. Devorah showed me a sculpture from the 13/14 century under a sheet... You know just sitting there, amongst coffee cups, modern day paraphernalia ... This old thing lol

Walked home along the river. It was quite pretty, watching the lights go down. Almost felt like I knew where I was gng, and that I may have almost shaken off the fearful tourist image. Arrived bk at the hotel to see Latizia organising things though seemed relieved to be away from the group who were all on a day trip. She really is a saint for putting up with some of these people ... Not that she has much of a choice. She was laughing when she told me that someone complained that there had been a ghost in their room the night before! I mean seriously!!! What is wrong with these people??? I collected my laundry, signed it pretty much without looking and headed up stairs. It wasn't until I looked that I nearly had a coronary SHIT!! Not even going to say how much it is and u would think I would have learnt from my last laundry experience but alas and also out of necessity it kind of needs to be done. That along with my phone seem to b the hidden costs of this trip.

About an hr later we boarded our trusty bus again and headed to a ornate house and were given a talk by the Count who ran it and the olive making operation there. I think they filmed room with a view there. It was elaborate and beautiful. I think by this stage we were a bit over listening to more explanations and became a little silly eg doing sale of the century actions to show off the fire place and having somewhat inappropriate actions around half naked busts and photo bombing other people's photos specifically Wendell 's because we knew it annoyed him lol. 

We then had dinner with the Aussies, roger, two other Australian ladies and two American friends. Good table! We all seem to have e same sense of humour and view of the trip, that being we loved it and took it all in our stride. We also had the same reaction to a song sung by one of our travel 'buddies' ( read that as seriously irritating classically overbearing and complaining American ).  Our reaction being that of ' are you kidding me? Really? This really happening?.... The bullshit meter was wavering considerably. Any who the company was great, food interesting, lots of different coloured puddles of puréed things lol. Left the mansion and went home on the bus while listening to American racist jokes and  to our second last night of the tour....possibly reaching my limit of over 65 Americans

ITALY 6th November - stopping go time and hidden treasure Pompeii - Assisi




Another really early start. 6:30 bags out the door leave by 7:20. Unfortunately whilst man handling my suitcase I somehow dropped, shoved, moved my case onto my toe. Hurt like a buggery blood everywhere :(. Not sure if at this stage if whole nail broken but I wrapped it up and motored on with the day. 

Saw Sharon for breakfast, nice to have someone save me a seat :). Though she made the mistake on sitting with, or they sat with her, Ms Complainalot and her friend Ms Shouldhavecomealonefeelingresentfulnow. Complainalot obviously had nothing good or positive to say, spoke about being terrified in Sorrento and being offered water on the side of the street! Heaven forbid!!! She was very dismissive of the lovely waiter there. She is    not  doing herself any favours and I will do my utmost not to sit near her again. 

We watched poor Salvatore load our luggage yet again on the bus... Poor guy... I would help but am useless as puzzles and can barely stack my own dishwasher! Then we headed to Pompeii. I was particularly excited to go. After being lulled into a mini snooze by our tour guides voice again... Not ideal lol we arrived and were met by our local guide. 

It was amazing to think the entire town was destroyed along with its occupants over the course of two days. I had imagined seeing people frozen in time and space but as I learnt it was almost. Impossible to do this. The archeologists when excavating would listen to hollow sounds indicating a crevice. These spaces were actually human forms. Their bodies had been totally eroded by the volcanic material that eventually enveloped them. Only the spaces in the shape of people remained. The archeologists then piped liquid plaster into the space essentially making a mould of the person / animal that was there. Now don't quote me on the above but it was something along those lines. Scientist think from evidence collected and the recount of a boy who saw the event (?) that there may have been a break in the volcanic activity eg heaps of ash and small rocks spewed from the volcano but then stopped. The theory is that the occupants thought that that was the end of the disaster and thus stayed. The next day the heat and gases exploded from the volcano all but obliterating those in its path. Often remains were found covering their faces in a defensive stance as a result of the over 200 degree temperatures. Remains of gladiators chained in their holding cells and animals tethered to homes could not even begin to escape. That said even given time the rest of the bustling quite affluent town of Pompeii was destroyed. 



I didn't realise that the whole of the town of Pompeii wasn't even discovered until relatively recently as the whole town was covered in volcanic material. Other communities had built upon it. There was one newer houses / buildings still remaining to show the depth that the town was buried - about 7m below. Even the coast line had changed. The original town on Pompeii was a few hundred metres from the coast whereas now it's a couple of kilometres!!!

The town itself was an awesome look back in time. The Romans knew how to live! They had many advancements which I think I would have said were much more modern eg retractable roofs over stadiums, bath houses, steam rooms, plumbing, shopping alleys etc. Pompeii was a busy centre with a hierarchy involving slaves, workers in shops, hotels, working and very popular brothels were there were illustrations above doors of certain positions and expertise of the ladies! They had one brothel that was quite well preserved with illustrations. Amazing  how mankind doesn't change. What each generation thinks is new and risqué is in fact just the normal process of exploration and discovery. Nothing is new lol.  That along with the phallic symbols sticking out of doors and engraved on floors provided some stifled giggles from our group. 

Piled bk on the bus headed for 5 hrs to Assisi 

Nothing much to report about the bus drive, except to say front of the bus is hard because you keep catching the eye of the tour guide and have to pretend to be engaged and listening. While I enjoy learning about Italian history and my surroundings a full two hours of chatter chatter talk talk jabber jabber ... And I thought I could talk!! Seriously our tour guide is incredibly knowledgeable but she does not have a filter and she is definitely selling for the company, which can leave you feeling a bit of a pawn in the machine called tourism. She is losing the attention of many people on the bus.

We were stopping at a big church before the hotel and I thought 'woo hoo another church/cathedral' as I'm such a churchy girl myself. Walking up to the basilica we saw (and i almost walked into eck!) Franciscan  monks dressed in their robes. The church was built to commemorate the life of Saint Francis. His basic story, and excuse me if i get some of the details wrong of glean over some finer points, I don't mean to sound flippant. He was the son of a wealthy merchant, who lived a privileged life. His father wanted him to go into the family business but decided to become a knight. He fought and was jailed for... Insert small crime....  Whilst he was in jail he look at all the poor souls, the ones without rich relatives to come and save them, the people who were essentially left to rot. Once out of jail he went to the town square and divested himself of all of his belongings including clothes ( quite a sight in those times, not like today when this is a common occurrence, even a rite of passage for many young Australian males lol). He then spent his life helping the poor, raising funds and fighting injustice and corruption in the church. In Assisi they built an amazing basilica to honour him, almost designed like a huge crypt, with his tomb below. 

We had a fantastic local guide who explained the significance of the art work and architecture, along with the history of the area and a drop of philosophy. It really was fantastic. The basilica was completed many years before the Sistine Chaple and even the Vatican's existence. It had the most brilliant blues and colours throughout. Gold leaf and lapis was used to illustrate various stories. It was far more vibrant than any other place we had seen including the Sistine Chapel and Saint Peter's in Rome. I didn't realise but in the time when it was built the local poorer majority of the population would never had seen coloured paintings like this before. Nor would they have seen windows stain glass or other as only the wealthy could afford these in their houses. It was just simply beautiful and if was Catholic, I think it would be a lovely place to sit and contemplate the meaning of life. Aslo another interesting fact is that during WWII the monks in the church saved the jews of the whole town. They allowed the 300-200 Jews to live in the space between the crypt level and church level, almost a full floor. While they were in hiding someone in the town made them all fake papers and essentislly saved all of them from being slaughtered.

Our guide was a character, funny and informative with a couple of great ideas and philosophies. Such as:
- we can get caught up in discussing being horrified by evil, nasty, the wronged people in history or on the news it is just as important to give equal time and space to those who do goods are good bring good
- Saint Valentine was actually a man who lived in roman times. During this period any young male who was not married were taken by the roman army for service. Saint valentine realised thus and organised for a mass set of marriages, essentially saving an entire towns population of males. Hence he is remembered every yr a person who saved lives using love... A bit f
- Saint Francis became friends with the sultan of Egypt. They both tried to convert each other until both realised they could not. Despite their differences they remained strong friends and this successful  relationship has been used to encourage and to provide a model for modern peace talks
- this story teaches us we should learn to understand and respect each others religions and cultures and not just tolerate them like we would tolerate a pebble in a shoe
-our tour guide also had this lovely explanation about different perspectives. He said that we are all people standing on a round ball, everyone looks out from a different position and sees the world I front of them from a different perspective. This is good to remember when finding it hard to comprehend an understanding of someone else's thinking. 
Saint Francis was the patron saint of nature so there were a few ideas about our relationships with nature and relationships in general. 
- we can only communicate with people and nature, unless we have love. Well not sure I  agree with that but certainly you can't communicate without a genuine interest. 
- love needs to be recharged, whether it be every season, every year, whether it be for a husband, pet, country. This was compared to nature and I guess similarly to the regeneration of nature , it needs to be cultivated. 
Anyway the above sounds a bit naff as I type it but at the time when I heard it, it all seemed to make sense. 

After the tour and the huffing and puffing of my fellow travellers up three stairs, we had coffee and biscuits in a cute cafe. Headed to the hotel a d got our rooms. A modern hotel but a bit of a tourist factory. Had a un impressive group dinner and chatted to more Americans. They seem easier to take when in smaller groups. 

We stayed chatting for a while but noticed some tension in the ranks. A family of Americans - a cool group with a younger daughter and aunt, mother and father newly married good sense of humour. They were flapping about, angry about how they had been treated, how this had happened this hadn't happened, we paid this amount for this service, not enough if this. Basically they were needing to vent, all good. I get the need to do this but I think they are surveying and collecting followers. I feel mutiny in the ranks. Knowing how these things tend to work, cycling into a frenzy of negativity, I think I'm enjoying watching from the sidelines and being very much non committal. Sat talking and listening to the history of native Americans and watching the mum get emotional about her childhood and then being asked to sign their petition about changing the Washington redskins football teams name as it is quite racially insensitive and quite insulting. Then time for bed! Far too late. 

Friday, 15 November 2013

ITALY 5th November no Capri, Naples


Woke up at 3:30am to claps of thunder and lightening..  Very very frightening... Can't help but sing the Queen song lol. It was really pelting down and as I got ready I wondered what would become of our planned ferry ride to the Isle of Capri and my planned alone time away from the group, while sipping coffee and writing this which I'm getting so behind on!!

Went down the breakfast with the offer of fried eggs!!! Yay something other on offer other than syrupy sweet juice ( really cordial ) chocolate cereal, cakes or preserves. Granted there is yogurt cold meat and cheese on offer but alas not on my menu. We were told that our excursion to the Isle of Capri had been cancelled as no boats were traveling out there. :(. Something else was planned. We piled onto the bus in our newly assigned rotated seats.... Read a whole lot of pensioners looking confused and taking even longer to get seated and settled.... Sigh. We headed off to Naples. 

I fell asleep the bus seems to be having that affect. Two hrs later we arrived in the rain in Naples. Our tour guide told us to be extra careful of soft hands and slick scooters. Apparently it is common place for scooters to drive by and snatch bags. Gee way to paint this town in a positive light!! We were taken around a square / forum / piazza ( probably need to clarify the difference ). Took a couple of pics walked outside the oldest opera house in Europe. Then we were taken to this ornate coffee house. We were escorted in and I guess despite it being a tourist booking aka get them in get them out...it was lovely. Everyone was given coffee and this amazing pastries - the pastry was wrapped in very fine loops around ricotta flavoured with nutmeg and vanilla. It kind of unwrapped like a mintie. It would be an amazing place to go for high tea.



The group- Sharon Kerri Georgia and myself ventured out handbags clasped tightly, heads down running between the rain drops. If you can believe I took the lead lol. I think I have the 'don't bother me , f### off, I will not buy your umbrella/ water / Tshirt / scarf / postcard' look down pat. We made it to this amazing galleria, so ornate and so grand. So similar to our Westfield shopping centres lol. 

Got back on the bus and headed bk to Sorrento. On the way bk we were ferried through a family wood carving factory and showroom. Can anyone say kickbacks! The first time I have really felt like a pawn in this travel company. They gave us a quick demonstration of how they make the wood etchings. Quite old school, some quite beautiful. Totally not my style. 

Headed back to the hotel after a quick trip to get supplies. Please note it's not just me in fact everyone has learnt from previous days where stops for food can be far and few between. People are buying whole picnic lunches. I bought an apple - trying hard not accumulate .... Famous last words!! We had lunch and decided to reconvene after a siesta. 

Woke up feeling hit by a truck. We were given a lift by the hotel dude down to the main rd of Sorrento. We meandered the streets and little lane ways. It was lovely. Nice to not having a voice telling us the historical importance of this step, that rock. Everyone was pretty chilled. The girls were all looking for presents and souvenirs. I as yet have not bought anything junky or even souvenir-ish, the weight of my bag and the three wks it took me to clean my house of junk is keeping my spending at bay... So far. 

Had a lovely few hrs, including a yummy dinner. It was nice to also be away from the group of old americans and their questions. Still eating spag Bol for dinner these days as its a bit of protein and I'm pretty guaranteed its without dairy. Made it home and packed ... Again.